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in four places while surfing Puerto Escondido.
"I took off on a wave that wasn't that great, pulled under the shifty lip and got broken from behind.
All I know is that the water broke my leg on impact. The lip at the Mexican pipeline has been responsible for breaking necks, backs and now officially snapping a leg in half. After the impact I was taken over the falls and beat up a bit. I reached down and assessed the damage. All I felt was the tip of my leg ending at my shin and it was a sword. My bone was the end of my leg for all I knew.
After getting beat up again, I reached down again and felt my foot dangling, grabbed it with both hands, and got beat again. By this time I was scared for my life, not knowing if I was bleeding from a severed artery, hoping I wasn't. Jeremy came up and got me on the ski, a few seconds and one more whitewash after letting out a ghastly scream for help. Getting up on the beach went really well, and the emergency crew, from my friends and lifeguards, to the medics and clinic in town, were awesome and saved my life. No real episodes of shock, no severed arteries, still alive. Stoked."
No doubt, Joe Suarez is the king of the barrel. He proved it to us not once but twice!.
Joe riding waves.
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David riding waves.
David Langer is a big wave master. As a professional big wave surfer, Langer has consistently been listed amongst the elite
Zonguie is an American company based in San Diego, California. It manufactures surf wear and accessories for extreme sports...
